Magnificent Marrakesh
I’ve had an inner longing for Morocco since reading The Sheltering Sky by Paul Bowles – even through the storyline features complicated characters on a road to self destruction, descriptive language weaves rich tapestries of the land and its people, evoking desert landscapes, exotic food and mysterious customs.
Marrakech was the first of Morocco’s four imperial cities, a jewel in the midst of the fertile Haouz Plain. The intricate Medina (ancient section of the city) is also known as the red city for its buildings and ramparts made of beaten clay so stunning it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985. In its heart lays Jamaa el- Fna square, a large and happening marketplace that comes alive at night with cobra whisperers, street food and crowds gathering after sunset to escape the city’s at times unbearable heat.
From this spot alleyways labyrinth with thousands of stores and pushy sellers, haggling, enticing, yelling over the crowds, directing tourist gaze to their leather ware, baskets, clothes, jewellery, fragrant scents, herbs, spices, ceramics, kaftans, rugs, bags and natural cosmetics. Look, I knew the shopping would be good but this good?
- A word on haggling and bargaining : everyone does it and expects it so get into it! I was much too polite on my first day so I bought items at full price, probably eliciting laughter behind my back. After a few days acclimatising, I began to hustle : advice given to me was to go under half of the stated vendor price, then come up to around half or a little higher. Be prepared to walk away – if the vendor bends, the price was right, if they don’t your price was too low. Make sure to be nice but firm- vendors appreciate politeness but will take advantage of naivety.
]Since it was my first time in the city, I was hell bent on staying in the old part of town, which meant staying in riads – traditional Moroccan homes typically situated around a courtyard, with gardens and a central fountain – little oases of tranquility and peace within a bustling city. I picked Riad Kaiss by Anika, specifically for its 4 top floor suites with a private terrace, separate lounge and bedroom building, gorgeous fittings and an old school but modern vibe – think Château Marmont’s classic yet luxurious style rooms in a North African flavour.
I’d choose this hotel again particularly for one of these 4 top floor suites with terraces, which were great for romantic nighttime hangouts under the stars, drinking wine with my lover listening to the city bustle, daytime sunbathing with a book and amazing privacy- most riad’s rooms open to a central indoor courtyard.
Another thing I adored about Riad Kaiss is its small, traditional hammam room – a godsend after a 28 hr long flight. My partner and I were steamed, lathered in black soap, rinsed, oiled and massaged into peaceful softness before taking a candlelit dinner on our rooftop.
Let’s face it a visit to Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé’s house is a must. Jardin Majorelle is painted a distinctive cobalt blue – a breathtaking shade trademarked Majorelle Blue crafted from crushed gemstone Lapis Lazuli found in this garden by artist Jean Majorelle in 1929. Sadly the house fell into disrepair before Yves and Pierre bought it in 1980, 11 years after they first visited Marrakech, restoring the classic blue and yellow colours and expanding on the variety of previous plants such as bougainvillea, banana plants, coconut palms, cacti, and water lilies -over 100 species from five continents.
Adjoining artist studio built by Jean to resemble Berber people’s towers now houses the Berber Museum containing a collection of artefacts from North Africa.
Nearby the Musée Yves Saint-Laurent displays a fabulous retrospective of some of Yves’ best designs, prototypes and sketches. Yves’ career spanned many pivotal decades in fashion- the collection housed here is a fabulous time capsule of 20th century trends and influences.
Do book the visit to the house and garden online ahead of the visit as sessions often sell out and aren’t available to purchase at the door.
You came all this way so a visit to the desert for some camel riding and a traditional Moroccan feast is a must. Ofcourse, if you have the time, you should definitely plan a trip to the granddaddy of desert experiences- the Sahara desert, but I still had fun at this lite version at the outskirts of Marrakech.
Word of advice: Ask what sort of transport the activity company uses or risk travelling in a 50C sweatbox like we did- it certainly was a free sauna! Many cars and buses still do not have air con here.
After a spin on camels, belly dancers and fire eaters provided raucous entertainment next to a roaring fire and it felt beautiful to be snug with my lover in the cooling evening desert air
Overnight trip to Essaouira had me wishing I’d booked an airbnb instead of a hotel- this coastal fishing town 3 hours drive away had dreamy seafood and fresh produce I really wanted to get into cooking. Think sweet prawns, lobsters, sardines, octopus, crab and an assortment of Atlantic fish, argan oil and vibrant fruits: strawberries, cacti, avocado and oranges.
Villa De L’Ô was a nice stay though and so was dinner at La Table by Madada, a Michelin guide recommended restaurant serving fresh local seafood in an upmarket venue. Next day we had lunch at Vague Bleue, a tiny hole in a wall on a small side street where simple seafood dishes shine in freshness.
Don’t skip over the shopping- I got the biggest haul of traditional Moroccan shoes here and whilst not as big as Marrakesh’s markets, there was a huge variety of artisanal goods.
A note of warning: even though it was August which usually means sweltering heat everywhere else, Essaouira was much cooler than Marrakech, requiring a thick sweater or jacket, due to the blustery winds off the Atlantic Ocean.
TANJA’S TIPS;
WHERE TO EAT : rooftop at EL FENN for delicious modern food, DAR ES SAALAM — Hitchcock shot ” The Man Who Knew Too Much ” here- expect traditional food in original opulence, DAR ZELLIJ, VILLA DES ORANGERS, JARDINS DE LOA MEDINA, LOTUS, TABLE DU PALAIS, TOBSIL, BUDDHA BAR, BO ZIN, EPICURIEN
PLACES TO STAY: EL FENN, RIAD KAISS, DAR RHIZLANE, ROYAL MANSOUR
THINGS TO DO:
- VISIT A HAMMAM: PEARL, ROYAL MANSOUR
- ROAD TRIP AROUND THE CITY – WE DID MARRAKECH SAHARA AND ESSAOUIRA BUT A FRIEND ALSO RECOMMENDED OUZOUD FALLS/OURIKA VALLEY
- FANTASIA SHOW AT CHEZ ALI FOR FUN
- YVES SAINT LAURENT HOUSE, GARDENS AND BERBER MUSEUM
CLUBS:RASPOUTINE, PACHA, THEATRO, NIKKI BEACH
Wearing ILIO NEMA throughout