Our designers on their inspirations and favourite Paris haunts
During Fashion Week, Paris is a whirlwind of activity – not only is it an arguable epicentre of the world’s most eagerly awaited fashion shows but numerous buyers flock to Paris for re-sees of collections that occurred elsewhere in the world. This year, I enlisted my dear friend Lindy Klim to help me find out what Australian designers love most about the city of love. We used the opportunity to visit their Parisian showrooms and choose our favourite pieces for a whirlwind shoot whilst picking their brains on their beautiful collections…
(above)Dion Lee
Tell me a little bit about the inspiration behind the collection, which fabrics did you use and why?
With this collection I wanted to explore evening wear silhouettes, that felt grounded and relatable.The silhouettes were created through slashing into the fabric at different points and alloying the fabric to collapse around the body.
We have worked with silk satin, triple viscose, leather and mohair; a mixture of contrasting, luxurious textures.
What do you love about Paris?
I love the sense of intimacy.You feel like you are in a small town, on a large scale.
Favourite spot in Paris?
Comptoir De L’Image on de Sevigne;An incredible archive of photography monoliths and rare design books.
Christopher Esber
Tell me a little bit about the inspiration behind the collection, which fabrics did you use and why?
Desert landscapes were a major notion in this seasons collection influencing the white chalky hues and burnt yellows through to the Raffia textures and finer pleat details. I wanted to take a skewed approach on the Classics- the essentials that every woman needs in her wardrobe.
What do you love about Paris?
All the doors and architecture
Favourite spot in Paris?
Brezih Cafe would have to be my favourite café
Tome
Tell me a little bit about the inspiration behind the collection, which fabrics di you use and why?
This season we chose two female artists: Belgian dancer Ann Terese Der Keersmaker and American Designer Donna Karan .They both rose to prominence in the early 80s and their aesthetic involved feminising and sensualising traditionally masculine elements . We took on their love of jersey and leotards -from Ann we took her geometry and from Donna the business banker cotton shirring stripes, bias cut satin dresses, and love for animal print. Then we took animal print in different directions by distorting it and elevating it in printed tissue silk lame, embroidered organza and wool blend jacquard
What do you love about Paris?
The food, the museums, the Bon marche!
Favourite spot in Paris?
It's not so secret but my favorite place is the Brancusi Atelier just outside the Centre Pompidou.
Michael Lo Sordo
Tell me a little bit about the inspiration behind the collection, which fabrics did you use and why?
My inspiration for Spring Summer would have to be the creative gathering of models, photographers and fashion designers in early ‘70s Paris mixed with a hint of romance. One thing I’ve always loved on a woman is a sexy dress that makes her not only feel beautiful but also empowered. The collection has a hint of softness with movement of the sheer pleats – chiffons in black, white and red with an undertone of relaxed and effortless dressing.
What do you love about Paris?
There is a certain buzz that hits Paris during Fashion Week. You can feel the spark all around from the Eiffel Tower to the Sacré-Cœur. It’s hard not be inspired on a daily basis - whether I’m in the car or walking the streets – you never know what might see and grab your attention.
Favourite spot in Paris?
Every time I go to Paris the first thing I do is attempt to make a reservation at Breizh Cáfe in the Marais which is impossible at times because they are booked out until like 2018 and even though you must make a reservation over the phone they never pick up. But without a doubt the best crepes you will EVER have.
Toni Maticevski
Tell me a little bit about the inspiration behind the collection,which fabrics did you use and why?
It started out purely about the fabrics. I noticed they all have a papery feel- everything was a bit tone on tone and shade against shade. So then I worked on silhouettes and shapes to exaggerate that flinging of supple crispness. I wanted it to feel clean but the detail in the garment to be really structured. So the whole thing felt a little constrained and relaxed at the same time.
What do you love about Paris?
Whats not to love! The pastry, the language, the people, the city. It really feels like my second home. Since living there over ten years ago just being able to go down any street and still discover something amazing is exciting.
Favourite spot in Paris?
Hmmmm. I love the little gardens across the city.. its so nice to be able to sit for five minutes outdoors surrounded by beautiful buildings, watching kids play and perfectly manicured flowers blooming.
Kym Ellery
Tell me a little bit about the collection, which fabrics did you use and why?
Artist Egon Schiele’s expressionistic painting kicked off inspiration for the collection, and is the muse you can thank for the voluminous, twisted, sharp, soft and asymmetrical shapes which were strong throughout the showcase. Think flared pants which are more office-chic than 70s flower child and frilled criss-cross draping on layered shirting, both exuding a certain sophisticated and clean-cut femininity. Fabrics: When designing I tend to choose my fabrics first.
I feel like they really set the mood for the collection. I love to source unique textiles from Switzerland, France and Italy and there is never any substitute for quality.
What do you love about Paris?
I love the culture and history that comes with Paris. The city has such a rich history with so many stories, I really feel that when I walk the streets there.
Favourite spot in Paris?
I love sitting on the grass in the garden at Place des Vosges. Watching the children play in the fountain's water is one of my favourite things to do on the weekend.The fountains are the closest things to being at the beach for Parisians so and as an Australian it is so fascinating to watch.
Ellery photographed by Jake Terrey
All others photographed by Claire Price
