I’ve had an inner longing for Morocco ever since I read The Sheltering Sky by Paul Bowles as a teen – even through the storyline features complicated characters on a road to self destruction, descriptive language weaves rich tapestries of the land and its people, evoking desert landscapes, exotic food and mysterious customs.
Marrakech was the first of Morocco’s four imperial cities, a jewel in the midst of the fertile Haouz Plain. The intricate Medina (ancient section of the city) is also known as the red city for its buildings and ramparts made of beaten clay so stunning it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985. In its heart lays Jamaa el- Fna square, a large and happening marketplace that comes especially alive at night with cobra whisperers, street food and crowds gathering after sunset to escape the city’s at times unbearable heat.
From this spot alleyways extend like a labyrinth with what seems like a thousand stores and their pushy sellers, haggling buyers into checking out their goods – everything from leather ware, baskets, clothes, jewellery, fragrant scents, herbs, spices, ceramics, kaftans, rugs, bags and natural cosmetics. Look, I knew the shopping would be good but this good?
- A word on haggling and bargaining : everyone does it and expects it so get into it! I was much too polite on my first day so I bought items at full price, probably eliciting laughter behind my back. After a few days acclimatising, I began to hustle : advice given to me was to go under half of the stated vendor price, then come up to around half or a little higher. Be prepared to walk away – if the vendor bends, the price was right, if they don’t your price was too low. Make sure to be nice but firm- vendors appreciate politeness but will take advantage of naivety.
Since it was my first time in the city, I was hell bent on staying in the old part of town, which means staying in riads – traditional Moroccan homes typically situated around a courtyard, with gardens and a central fountain- little oases of tranquility and peace within a bustling city. I picked a stay in Riad Kaiss by Anika, specifically for its top floor suite with a private terrace, separate lounge and bedroom building, gorgeous fittings and an old school but modern vibe – think Château Marmont’s classic yet luxurious style rooms in a North African flavour.
I’d choose this hotel again particularly for these top floor suite terraces, which were great for romantic nighttime hangouts under the stars, drinking wine with my lover listening to the city bustle, daytime sunbathing with a book and amazing privacy- most riad rooms open to a central indoor courtyard.
Another thing I adored about Riad Kaiss is its small but traditional hammam room which was a godsend after a 28 hr long flight. We did a couples treatment where a strong Moroccan woman with broken English pommeled us both into relaxed submission, first with a steam, then rubbed all over with a special Moroccan black soap, we were scrubbed and cleaned, oiled and massaged.
There are a number of things to do when seeing the city but a visit to Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé’s house is a must. Painted a distinctive cobalt blue – a breathtaking shade trademarked Majorelle Blue crafted from crushed gemstone Lapis Lazuli found in this garden by artist Jean Majorelle in 1929, the property and its beautiful enclosure are now called Jardin Majorelle.
The house fell into disrepair before Yves and Pierre bought it in 1980, 11 years after they first visited Marrakech, restoring the classic blue and yellow colours and expanding on the variety of previous plants such as bougainvillea, banana plants, coconut palms, cacti, and water lilies -over 100 species from five continents. Adjoining artist studio built by Jean to resemble Berber people’s towers now houses the Berber Museum containing a collection of artefacts from North Africa.
Nearby the Musée Yves Saint-Laurent displays a fabulous retrospective of some of Yves’ best designs, prototypes and sketches- pieces to salivate over and remember forever. It’s important to note Yves’ career spanned many decades in which fashions went through quite a few changes- the collection housed here is a fabulous time capsule of 20th century trends and influences.
Do remember to book the visit to the house and garden online ahead of your visit as the sessions often sell out and aren’t available to purchase at the door.
You came all this way so a visit to the desert for some camel riding and a traditional Moroccan feast is a must. Ofcourse, if you have the time, you should definitely plan a trip to the granddaddy of desert experiences- the Sahara desert, but I still had fun at this lite version at the outskirts of Marrakech.
Word of advice: Ask what sort of transport the activity company is using- if they say it is a bus, van or car, ask if it is modern and air-conditioned or risk travelling in a 50C sweatbox like we did- it certainly was a free sauna! Trust me, transport is cheap here and you won’t regret paying some extra cash for a cooler ride, even if it means booking your own taxi or uber.
Make sure to book the last slot of camel riding sessions before the dinner feast or you may be placed in the earlier afternoon session, then be made to wait around in the heat for hours with no wifi or mobile reception- its own version of sweaty purgatory,
Bellydancers and fire eaters provided raucous entertainment during dinner but beware if you’re gluten free like me, dietary requirements don’t exist here and won’t be accommodated. If you’re not celiac, bring some digestive pills and try to keep up : )
Overnight trip to Essaouira had me wishing I’d booked an airbnb with a great kitchen instead of a hotel- this coastal fishing town 3 hours drive away had incredibly dreamy seafood and fresh produce I really wanted to cook myself. Think sweet prawns, lobsters, sardines, octopus, and crab plus an assortment of Atlantic fishes, yummy argan oil made in the region, Berber Nutella; a roast almond and argan oil blend and mountains of fruit like strawberries, cactus, avocado and oranges.
Saying that Villa De L’Ô was a lovely stay and so was dinner at La Table by Madada, a Michelin guide recommended restaurant serving fresh local seafood with a touch of upmarket pizzaz. The next day we had lunch at Vague Bleue, a tiny restaurant on a small side street where dishes tasted dreamy yet simple, like being fed by a Moroccan mama who really knows her seafood.
Don’t skip over the shopping- I got my biggest haul of woven straw shoes here and they were incredible and cheaper than in Marrakech.
A note of warning: even though it was August which usually means sweltering heat everywhere else, Essaouira was much cooler than Marrakech, requiring a thick sweater or a jacket, due to the blustery winds off the Atlantic Ocean. I was certainly unprepared and looked forward to going back to Marrakech!
TANJA’S TIPS;
WHERE TO EAT:rooftop at EL FENN for delicious modern food, DAR ES SAALAM- Hitchcock shot ” The Man Who Knew Too Much ” here- expect traditional food in original opulence, DAR ZELLIJ, VILLA DES ORANGERS, JARDINS DE LOA MEDINA, LOTUS, TABLE DU PALAIS, TOBSIL, BUDDHA BAR, BO ZIN, EPICURIEN
PLACES TO STAY: EL FENN,RIAD KAISS,DAR RHIZLANE, ROYAL MANSOUR
THINGS TO DO:
- VISIT A HAMMAM: PEARL, ROYAL MANSOUR
- ROAD TRIP AROUND THE CITY – WE DID MARRAKECH SAHARA AND ESSAOUIRA BUT INSIDER RECOMMENDED OUZOUD FALLS/OURIKA VALLEY ALSO
- FANTASIA SHOW AT CHEZ ALI FOR FUN
- YVES SAINT LAURENT HOUSE, GARDENS AND BERBER MUSEUM
CLUBS:RASPOUTINE, PACHA, THEATRO, NIKKI BEACH
Wearing ILIO NEMA throughout